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« Michael Becker Talk at Yale | Main | Undergrad Linguistics Club»

Report from Heather Walts

Heather Walts, UMass Amherst Linguistics BA, has been living and working in Pakistan for nearly a year now. The following continues her report on greetings.

"Ya Ali madad," say the children as they pass by me in the village streets. May Ali help you always. "Muala Ali madad." May Ali always help you too.

We are in Ismaili territory now, and the Sunni/Shia greeting of Salaam Alaikum (May the peace of Allah be upon you) along with it's response Wa alaikum asalaam (May the peace of Allah also be upon you) is no longer the standard.

Now I'm in real trouble with my greetings, because while I don't mind using the standard greeting Salaam Alaikum, I have a bit of trouble saying Ya Ali madad. Why is that? Well as a Christian myself I believe that God (Arabic = Allah, Urdu = Xuda) can bestow peace upon someone, but I personally don't believe that Ali is physically helping anyone. It would as if in America the greeting was not "Hello, how are you?" (or "Hey, what's up?") but it was something like "May Buddha be helping you", "May Jesus be helping you," or "May Krishna be helping you." It would certainly be odd to stick in the name of someone that you personally did not believe to have that power.

The Shia/Sunni split is based on a difference in opinion over how the leadership of the Muslim community should be decided. Basically, Shia believe that leadership should be hereditary and that Ali, Mohammad's son in law, should have been the first rightful Caliph (leader of the Muslim community). Prior to Ali, there were three other caliphs who the Shia regard as usurpers. Ali ended up being killed by some who didn't agree with his claim to leadership, as was his son Hussein. With the death of Hussein came the split of Sunni and Shia, Shia holding that the leadership should be chosen from Mohammad's family. Shia also consider their religious leader, the imam, to be infallible (unable to do wrong) and to have a direct connection with Allah, unlike other devout followers. Within Shi'ism there is a further breakdown of sects depending on how long they believe the true imamate lasted. Some Shia believe the 7 th imam was the last one and some Shia believe the 12th imam was the last one, these are referred to as the Seveners and the Twelvers respectively.

The Ismailis are those who believe the imamate has continued to the present day. Most Ismailis live in the Hunza region of Pakistan. Their current imam is Aga Khan, who I'm told is the third richest man living in France….or at least that's the rumor in Hunza. Third richest or tenth richest man in France, this man's picture is in every living room in Ismaili villages. His picture watches over you as you ride in a Suzuki down steep mountain roads. His smiling face is looking down on you as you enjoy a modest meal in the smallest hole-in-the-wall restaurant. No shop would be complete without Aga Khan's photo hanging above the merchandise.

Not only is his picture everywhere, but his investment is as well. The Aga Khan Development Foundation is the largest NGO active in the Northern Areas of Pakistan. Each village has an Aga Khan Diamond Jubilee School for primary education. Irrigation projects have been sponsored by Aga Khan. Clean drinking water, sanitation, transport roads, literacy programs, girls' hostels, girls' colleges, health centers, micro-loans, small business development, women's vocational training, you name it! It's all provided by Aga Khan's various organizations.

Technically, I would say that the Ismailis worship not only Ali, but also the Aga Khan. They have special worship songs written only for him. They celebrate his birthday, anniversary, and even his sons' marriages. One day when I was in the village everything was put on hold because the Aga Khan's son was getting married in India. People had to run off to worship at the jamaa khana.

So back to my problem of the greetings: What do I say when I greet Ismailis? Well the good thing is that most of the Ismailis I know are Burushaski speakers and they do not use the ya Ali madad greeting. They generally stick with the traditional "Behal bila"and the response "Thik bila." I haven't learned so much about Burushaski (language isolate, heavy borrowing from Urdu) but there's not any reference to Ali or the Aga Khan in there so I'm safe. Bila = form of "be", thik = ok/good, borrowed from Urdu.

My friends from the Hunza region tend to only use ya Ali madad as an exclamative and not as a greeting. When 75 year-old grandpa is trying to stand up, he says, "Ya Ali madad." When they find out someone in the village has become pregnant, "Ya Ali madad." It can be used in either a positive or negative exclamation.

It would be interesting to do a survey on the Ismaili villages in the Northern Areas and to see under what circumstances they use the expression ya Ali madad and how its use differs from place to place, but as for now my greeting crisis is temporarily solved. I'm back in Lahore where most people I meet are Sunni or Shia Muslims, so it's safe for me to use Salaam alaikum once more.

November 2, 2006 12:12 AM | 04:28 (2006-11-02) , alums , undergrad news